2019 University of Scouting – Dutch Oven Cooking

Cast Iron Cookware

What is a Dutch Oven?

Dutch oven is a thick-walled cooking pot with a tight-fitting lid. Dutch ovens are usually made of seasoned cast iron; however, some Dutch ovens are instead made of cast aluminium, or ceramic. Some metal varieties are enameled rather than being seasoned (see next section).

Acquiring a Dutch Oven

You can start your Dutch Oven journey at Walmart or Amazon.

Dutch Ovens come in many shapes and sizes. Typically, in Scouting, we use standard 10-inch diameter (4 Quart) and 12-inch (6 Quart) ovens.

You want to make sure you get a flanged lid for putting coals on top. Some dutch ovens are for home use and have dome style lids.

What else do I need?

How much money do you have to spend?

In order of preference, I recommend the following:

  • A Lid Lifter $5-10 (while the right stick can work, a lid lifter is very handy)
  • Charcoal Starter/Chimney $10-20
  • Welding gloves $15-20
  • Dutch Oven Care Kit – Scrubber, Scraper, Oil, Cast Iron Soap $15-50
  • A Boy Scout Firestarter $40

Preparing your Dutch Oven for Use

Great news! Your cast iron cookware is probably pre-seasoned at the factory so you can just dive in and use it. If it is, skip ahead the next part

Seasoning your Dutch Oven

Seasoning is the process of treating the surface of a cooking vessel with heated fat in order to produce a corrosion-resistant and stick-resistant coating.

Food sticks easily to a new bare metal pan; it must either be oiled before use, or seasoned. The coating known as seasoning is initially created by a process of layering a very thin coat of oil on the pan. Then, the oil is polymerized to the metal’s surface with high heat for a time. The base coat will darken with use. This process is known as “seasoning”; the color of the coating is commonly known as its “patina”.

To season a pan (e.g., to season a new pan, or to replace damaged seasoning on an old pan), the following is a typical process:

  1. cleaning the cookware to remove residues from manufacturing or manufacturer-applied anti corrosion coating and expose the bare metal,
  2. applying a thin layer of animal fat or cooking oil (ranging from vegetable oil to lard, including many common food-grade oils), and
  3. heating the cookware to generate the seasoned coating.[5][6][7][8]

If it is not pre-seasoned, a new cast iron skillet or dutch oven typically comes from the manufacturer with a protective coating of wax or shellac, otherwise it would rust. This needs to be removed before the item is used.[9] An initial scouring with hot soapy water will usually remove the protective coating. Alternatively, for woks, it is common to burn off the coating over high heat (outside or under a vent hood) to expose the bare metal surface. For already-used pans that are to be re-seasoned, the cleaning process can be more complex, involving rust removal and deep cleaning (with strong soap or lye,[10] or by burning in a campfire or self-cleaning oven[11]) to remove existing seasoning and build-up. Once the pan has been heated, dried, and thinly layered with oil or fat, it is placed in an oven, grill, or other heating enclosure for the oil to be polymerized onto the metal’s surface. The process of polymerization is dependent on the oil, temperature of the enclosure, and the duration. The precise details of the seasoning process differ from one source to another, and there is much disagreement regarding the correct oil to use. There is also no clear consensus about the best temperature and duration. Lodge Manufacturing uses a proprietary soybean blend in their base coats as stated on their website. Others use lard, or animal fats. Some advocate the use of food-grade flaxseed oil (a drying oil).[12] The temperature recommended for seasoning varies from high temperatures above 260 °C (500 °F) to temperatures below 150 °C (302 °F). Some say that a temperature around the smoke point of the oil or fat should be targeted since this will allow vaporization of the lighter hydrocarbons from the oil, leaving behind heavier molecules for optimal polymerization and carbonization to occur. And, there is also no consensus on the correct duration of heating: from half an hour to an hour is often recommended.

Storing your Dutch Oven

After use Dutch ovens are typically cleaned like other cast-iron cookware: with boiling water, and a soft brush or sponge. Where possible, a cleaned and freshly oiled Dutch oven should be stored in a clean, dry location with the lid ajar or off to promote air circulation and to avoid the smell and taste of rancid oil. If the Dutch oven must be stored with the lid on, a paper towel or piece of newspaper should be placed inside the oven to absorb any moisture.

Cooking in a Dutch Oven

The Dutch Oven Dude’s advice about Cooking temperature is excellent.


Here are some links to Dutch Oven Recipes:

Master Chef Contest Winners

Drum roll, please … find the winners of the Scouting magazine Dutch Oven Master Chef Contest below. Click on each winning recipe to see photos and find instructions on how to make these on your next campout.

SAVORY Category

SWEET Category


Here are some links to useful Dutch Oven articles:

Byron’s Dutch Oven Cooking

Apparently, Byron’s Dutch Oven Cooking site (without a doubt the best resource for Dutch Oven cooking) has been removed from the internet. There are some pages archived in the Internet Way Back Machine here.

The entire site has been reconstituted into a PDF file, downloadable here.

2019 University of Scouting – Winter Camping Fun

Troop Camping in the Winter Months


1st Rule:  Be prepared for any weather in any extreme.

2nd Rule:  Plan for cold, wet, windy weather.  (And be grateful when it’s not.)

3rd Rule:  Plan for the Scouts to be under-prepared for extreme (especially wet) conditions.


There are three key principles to keep in mind when planning a winter campout:

  1. Stay dry – wear waterproof outer layer; change clothes before going to sleep; wet clothes + cold weather = uncomfortably cold Scout, and serious risk of Hypothermia.
  2. Dress in layers – wear a wicking base layer (polyester), insulating middle layer (fleece or wool), and water/wind resistant outer layer (ideally Gore-Tex material).
  3. Avoid cotton material – it absorbs moisture and dries too slowly, and wet clothes draw heat away from the body at an alarming rate.


Stay Warm, Stay Dry, Stay Hydrated



Sun/wind burn

Make sure that you have a good knowledge of the signs of frostbite and hypothermia. You should be able to recognize it in others and in yourself. Tell someone right away if you or another scout is showing signs of cold-related problems.

Keep out of the wind if you can. A rain fly for a tent can be pitched to serve as a wind break. The wind chill factor can often be considerable and can result in effective temperatures being much lower than nominal.

Bring extra WATER. It’s easy to get dehydrated in the winter. You aren’t visibly sweating, so you don’t think to drink water, but since the air is so dry, you lose a LOT of water through breathing. Drink lots of water!


Polyester materials are intended to wick sweat away from the skin (e.g., Under Armor T-Shirts).  Sweat wicking material is often disguised under other material names such as: nylon, polypropylene, capilene, spandex, and lycra. If it is made with more than 40% cotton, it is NOT a satisfactory wicking material.

The key to cold weather camping is to stay warm and dry. Bring both light and heavy weight clothing in order to “layer” if the weather is cold. Scouts should remove layers if they start to overheat and sweat. For base layer (i.e., underwear, socks, t-shirt), bring at least one change per full day of camping.

Everyone must be dry by sundown. No wet (sweaty) bodies or wet inner clothing.

Dress in layers, the trapped air helps keep you warm, and you can shed layers if you warm up.

STAY DRY!! If you get wet, make sure you change into dry clothes as soon as possible. In order to do that, you must have more than 1 article of clothing with you. For example, 3 pairs of wool socks, 2 pairs of pants, etc.

NO COTTON clothing as your primary clothing. NO JEANS!  (This is especially true in the snow or icy cold rain.)

Make sure you have snow pants, nylon wind pants, or wool pants, and polypropylene or wool long underwear.


Dress right while sleeping. Change into clean, dry clothes before bed. Your body makes moisture and your clothes hold it in – by changing into dry clothes you will stay warmer and it will help keep the inside of your sleeping bag dry. Wearing wool socks and long underwear (tops and bottoms) in the sleeping bag is OK.

Put on tomorrow’s t- shirt and underwear at bedtime. That way you won’t be starting with everything cold next to your skin in the morning.  Put tomorrow’s clothes in your bag with you to take up space in the bag and to warm them for the morning.

Put a couple of long-lasting hand warmers into your boots after you take them off. Your boots will dry out during the night.

Don’t sleep directly on the ground. Get a closed cell foam pad to provide insulation between your sleeping bag and the ground. A foam pad cushions and insulates. The air pockets are excellent in providing good insulation properties. Use more than one insulating layer below you – it’s easy to slide off the first one.

No cots! Better to lay on 30F earth instead of -10F air.

If in tents, leave the tent flaps/zippers vented a bit, it cuts down on interior frost.

Drain your bladder before you go to bed. Having to go in the middle of the night when it is 5 degrees out chills your entire body. Drink all day but stop one hour before bed.


Bring extra food that doesn’t need to be heated or cooked. Granola bars, trail mix, etc.

Keep a pot of hot water available for cocoa or Cup-a-Soup – these warm from the inside.

Always eat hot meals (breakfast, lunch, & dinner.) Dutch ovens are the best – they keep the food hot longer. It doesn’t need to be fancy DO cooking. Meals should be 1-pot meals to keep cleanup to a minimum. Don’t get too fancy with the meals – it’s hard to chop onions & carrots at -10F with gloves on. Prep all meals at home in the warmth of the kitchen.

Shelter the cooking area from wind (walls of tarps, etc.)

Fill coffee/cook pots with water before bed. It’s hard to pour frozen water, but easy to thaw it if it’s already in the pot.

Eat a high-energy snack before bed, then brush your teeth. The extra fuel will help your body stay warm. Take a Snickers bar to bed and eat it if you wake up chilly in the night.


Always bring a bit more than what you think you’ll need – water, food, clothes.

Winter Camping Games and Fun

Broom Hockey:  play hockey on a lake or pond using brooms for hockey sticks and a tennis ball for a puck.

Water Machine Contest:  a water machine is simply a old burlap bag or other porous material (tarp).  Gather snow in the bag or on a tarp, gather the top or the corners and tie off the too.  Then hang the bag or tarp with the snow in it near a fire.  Put a pot or No. 10 can below to catch.  Have Scouts start from scratch by gathering wood and building a tire as well as gathering snow.  This promotes teamwork and gives everyone in the Patrol something to do.  The first  patrol to “make” a quart (or gallon) of water wins.  The water machine is also an excellent technique for maintaining a continual water supply while winter camping.

Snow Golf:  the same as miniature golf, except that the fairways are snow covered and the greens are packed down areas with a tin can buried in the snow for the hole.  The golf balls are hockey pucks hit with old golf clubs. 

Learn the Basics of Winter Photography: sponsor a winter photography contest by Patrols or individuals.

Exploring:  no phase of Scoutcraft can better form motive for a long hike than exploring the Woods in Winter.  Exploring (and mapping) a given tract of woodland will prove rich in all around Scout training.  It will furnish instruction, recreation and exercise.  It will involve not only technical practice in surveying and map-making but also cooking, camping and woodcraft in general.  The instructive side will be interesting in itself and one may rest assured that the games, stunts and story-telling contests around the campfire will have unusual energy.  

Patrol Animals Snow Sculpture Contest:  The actual carving of statuary is another fascinating pastime.

Mystery games like Murder in the Dark and Mafia are a great option when you’re sitting around the campfire at night. No cards or table needed and the darkness and night noises will help make the game more mysterious.

Corn Hole, Ladder Toss, Bocce Ball are all good choices for no snow winter camping. Anything that keeps the gloves on and keeps the Scouts active will be enjoyable.

Winter Camping in Middle Tennessee

Expect the Scouts to wear jeans and a hoodie in cold weather.  This is plenty to get them from the front door to the bus stop in cold weather, it should be fine for Scout camp too, right?

Except it’s not.  Encourage them to pack and wear warmer clothing, in layers, and to at least bring a waterproof layer in case it rains, sleets, or snows over the campout.  Also, be certain to build a fire, not a pretty fire that’s nice to look at, a warm fire that can heat up cold hands and cold, wet bodies.

Winter Camping “up North”

If you’re camping in the snow, wear snow pants over your regular clothing

Bring extra hand covering – mittens are warmer than gloves.

Bring 2 changes of socks per day.

Fill a couple of Nalgene water bottles with warm water and sleep with one between your legs (warms the femoral artery) and with one at your feet. Or use toe/hand warmers. Toss them into your sleeping bag before you get in. Some of the toe/hand warmers will last 8 hours.


Use a sleeping bag that is appropriate for the conditions. Two +20F sleeping bags, one inside the other will work to lower the rating of both bags.

Use a bivvy sack to wrap around your sleeping bag. You can make a cheap version of this by getting an inexpensive fleece sleeping bag. It isn’t much more than a blanket with a zipper, but it helps lower the rating by as much as 10 degrees.

Use a sleeping bag liner. There are silk and fleece liners that go inside the sleeping bag. They will lower your sleeping bag’s rating by up to 10 degrees. Or buy an inexpensive fleece throw or blanket and wrap yourself in it inside the sleeping bag.

Most cold weather bags are designed to trap heat. The proper way to do this is to pull the drawstrings until the sleeping bag is around your face, not around your neck. If the bag also has a draft harness, make sure to use it above the shoulders and it snugs up to your neck to keep cold air from coming in and warm air from going out.

Don’t burrow in – keep your mouth and nose outside the bag. Moisture from your breath collecting in your bag is a quick way to get really cold. Keep the inside of the bag dry.

A zipped-up coat pulled over the foot of a sleeping bag makes an extra layer of insulation.

Winter Camping Kit List


  • Sleeping bag – warm bag, ideally rated as a “zero degree” bag or better
  • Wool or fleece blankets – to put over and under sleeping bag as extra insulation if sleeping bag is not rated as “zero degree” (adds 10-20 degrees of warmth)
  • Pillow (optional)
  • Ground pad – either foam pad or Therm-A-Rest pad
  • Stuff sack for sleeping bag (preferably waterproof sack)


  • At least 3 polyester underwear
  • At least 3 pairs of heavy socks with liner socks.  NOT cotton sweat socks.
  • At least 3 polyester base shirts – long or short sleeve (worn against skin)
  • 1-2 insulating fleece pullovers or wool sweaters
  • Hooded sweat shirt and sweat pants to sleep in (this can be cotton for sleeping at night)
  • Insulated coat/ jacket that is wind/water resistant – suitable for camping environment
  • Winter stocking cap that covers entire head and ears
  • Balaclava or ski mask to cover head and face (optional)
  • Bandana or handkerchief
  • 2 pair warm gloves or mittens (outer material should be wind/water resistant)
  • Winter boots (with adequate insulation and waterproof material)
  • Extra Pair of footwear – sneakers are OK as supplement to winter boots; Crocks/sandals are NOT appropriate footwear for winter camping
  • Rain gear (poncho or water-resistant pants/top shell)

Other Items

  • Back pack or duffel bag for personal gear
  • Garbage bags to store your clothes (and keep them dry)
  • Wash kit – Soap, wash cloth, towel, comb, deodorant, toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, lip balm, toilet paper, feminine hygiene products
  • Mess kit – drinking cup, bowl, plate, and utensils with your name on it
  • Boy Scout Handbook (in a plastic, zip-lock bag)
  • Water bottle or canteen
  • Headlamp (preferred), or Flashlight, with extra batteries
  • Compass (optional)
  • Camping chair (optional)
  • Sunglasses
  • Personal first-aid kit
  • Medicines and medical supplies (Must co-ordinate with adult leader)
  • Toboggan/sled (Optional)
  • Pocket knife (Optional)
  • Whistle

Troop Provided Items

  • Tents
  • Cooking equipment, food and cleaning supplies
  • First-aid kit
  • Snow shovel
  • Rope, twine
  • Ground sheet, tarps for under tents
  • Fire starter, fuel, firewood, etc.
  • Toilet paper
  • Duct tape
  • Trash bags
  • Rubber gloves
  • Cards


Winter Camping Tips, Checklists and Preparation

Winter Camping Games and Fun

A New Adventure…

I’ve added a few new acronyms to my life this past week:  BMI, BNA, and TN.

I’ve accepted a position at Broadcast Music Inc. (BMI), which is in Nashville (BNA) Tennessee (TN).  This will require a move from Charlotte to Nashville.  Something we are going to have to work on over the next few weeks.

I will be a Senior ETL Developer at BMI and I am very excited about this new position.  They have a ton of ETL packages to move to SSIS and the Microsoft stack.  It will almost certainly involve BIML because of the sheer number of packages and data feeds.  It sounds awesome.

So this One Man is off to mow a new meadow once again.  Say a prayer for me and wish me luck.  Thanks!

The Common ETL Framework Part 2


Each package is responsible for logging at two different levels:  Audit and Debug.

The Audit level of logging needs to record the following for each package execution:

  1. Start Day and Time
  2. Executing Machine name
  3. Executing as Username
  4. Records Affected (if appropriate) – Can include Records Inserted, Updated, Deleted, Archived, Errored, etc.
  5. Error data if an error occurs – Includes SQL Error, Call Stack, etc.
  6. Presence of Bad Data, if any, with specifics
  7. End Day and Time

The Debug level of logging records all the Audit level items, plus Control Flow Task level logging, plus reporting the Bad Data, if any, with specifics.

In SSIS, this level of logging can be handled by adding Package and Task level event handlers.  The BIML code to create them looks like this.  There are several placeholders in this code that will be expanded upon in a later post.

Package Level Event Handlers:


Main Control Flow Level Task Event Handlers:


Error Handling

There is a Package Level Error Handler in the example above.  Basically, we need to capture the errors at the package and task level and log them to an Audit.PackageExecutionError table.  Note: Bad Data that is being redirected to an Audit.BadDataLog table is not going to raise an error.  The Framework needs to be able to handle both sorts of errors and report on either of them in the notification portion of the Framework.  The Bad Data data flow is shown in the diagram below.



Depending on the Success, Failure/Error, Unusual Behavior, or Bad Data condition of the Package or Task, there are different people that need to be alerted.  The first pass of implementing the Routing will look at SMTP Email as the notification routing mechanism.  A later pass might look at HTTP or Web Service notifications.

All notification contact info will be in the Audit schema and will be maintainable through simple table updates.  Email addresses and notification recipients must not be hard coded into the packages, neither by a developer nor by BIML.  Notification recipients must be determined dynamically at run-time.

In the Success condition, an optional statistical email to the specified notification recipients would suffice.  This email would show the Success of the Package and include Package Name, Start Time, End Time and Elapsed Time, Data Source, Target DB, and the Affected Row Counts.  Notification recipients should be configurable to receive notifications Daily, Weekly, Bi-weekly, Monthly or Not at All.

In the Failure/Error condition, a detailed error message needs to be sent to the notification recipients that are indicated as SendErrorNotice in their contact profile.  Every package must name at least one SendErrorNotice contact.  These contacts will receive an email that shows that there was an error, the Package Name, Start Time, End Time and Elapsed Time, Data Source, Target DB, Schema, and Table Name, Affected Row Counts, Error Message(s), Stack Trace (if available), Bad Data Condition (if there is one), and as much other information as we can harvest from SSIS.  The difference between a Failure and an Error is that a Failure is expected in certain circumstances, but an Error is not expected.

In the Unusual Behavior condition, a message needs to be sent to the SendErrorNotice recipients, as in the Failure condition above.  However, the Unusual Behavior notification will document the Package Name, Start Time, End Time and Elapsed Time, Data Source, Target DB, Schema, and Table Name, Affected Row Counts, and Bad Data Condition (if there is one), as well as documenting the Unusual Behavior that triggered this condition.  For example, a package normally processes 100,000 rows, if it suddenly processes 500,000 rows, this would be Unusual Behavior.  Likewise, for a package that typically takes 3 minutes to run, to take 20 minutes to run would be Unusual Behavior.

In the Bad Data condition, the package has not Failed, Errored, or experienced Unusual Behavior.  It has experienced rows being routed to the Bad Data path(s) in the Data Flow.  Details of the Bad Data need to be sent to the notification recipients that are indicated as SendBadDataNotice in their contact profile.  These notifications should include the Package Name, Start Time, End Time and Elapsed Time, Data Source, Target DB, Schema, and Table Name, Affected Row Counts, Bad Data Row Counts, and Bad Data Row Details.


Multi-threading allows the package to run faster when there are tasks that can be run in parallel.  There are two multi-threading conditions that the Framework needs to handle:

  • Master Package Multi-threading of multiple child packages
  • Package Task execution within a package

Re-run ability

Packages should be re-runnable if the data has changed and we need to reload it.  For example, bad data was detected, logged and handled.  Now the bad data has been fixed, we need to re-run the package for today’s data.  This implies that the package would know that its last run had bad data, that the package actions need to be reversed and then the package can reload the data for the day.  This is most often implemented as a clean-up step at the beginning of the ETL package that makes sure that none of the data it’s about to put into the database is already there and removing it if it is.  For example, the package was loading data into the final tables when the database ran out of space and threw an error.  Once the space issue is fixed, the package would be re-run.  First, it would remove the data it loaded in the first run, then it would load the data normally as if it had not been run before.


Packages should be able to pick up from the task prior to the failure point and run properly (where this makes sense).  There’s no need to stage data we’ve already staged.  Typically, when a package fails, it has already done some processing.  Packages should be able to roll back the failed task and restart from that point.  This is an advanced ETL framework activity.  It can be very tricky to deal with restarting a failed package, especially if it has any complexity in it.

My First Foray into Hadoop

So I have a big dataset (1.7 billion rows) that I want to analyze.  I figured, “Hey, Hadoop is all over this Big Data thing, I wonder if I can do a Proof of Concept?”

Compiling Hadoop on Windows (Ugh!)

So, first, I tried to follow some instructions on how to get the Hadoop source into Windows and compile it.  It turns out that Hadoop is Jave based and most Hadoop programmers are Java programmers.  So a lot of the instructions are in Java.  And, good for me, the build engine is Maven, which I happen to know quite a bit about thanks to the weeks at CompanionCabinet where I automated the build using Maven.

However, it turned out the Ant was having a problem with running the SH command and after several tries, I went googling for an already compiled version of the Hadoop project.  Low and behold, I found one on GitHub:  https://github.com/karthikj1/Hadoop-2.7.1-Windows-64-binaries.  In the middle of the top area of the page is a “1 Release” link.  Click there to download the binary:

Hadoop Binary

Installing all the bits

Based on the wiki article here:  http://wiki.apache.org/hadoop/Hadoop2OnWindows.

I found the link to this:  Building.txt

Near the bottom of that file, are some incomplete instructions on what to download, install and do to compile your own version of Hadoop in Windows.

So I downloaded all these:

  1. Java Developers Kit (JDK) 1.7.0_80, includes Java Runtime Environment (JRE) 7.
    JDK Download
  2. Maven 3.3.9.
  3. Cygwin 64.
  4. CMake 3.5.2.
  5. zlib 128.
  6. protobuf 2.5.0.
  7. Windows 7 SDK.

Then I installed or unzipped the files.

  1. JDK 1.7 is an install.  I let it install to Program Files\Java.
  2. I copied the Maven file to the Java folder and unzipped it to a new folder (apache-maven-3.3.9).
  3. I installed Cygwin to the Program Files\Java\Cygwin folder.
  4. I installed CMake and accepted the defaults.
  5. I unzipped the zlib 128 files to Program Files\Java\zlib128-dll.
  6. I unzipped the protobuf files to Program Files\Java\protobuf-2.5.0.
  7. I tried to install the Windows 7 SDK but it had issues, which I ignored and proceeded on since I wasn’t going to compile my own Hadoop after all.
  8. I unzipped the Hadoop files to \hadoop-2.7.1.

Then I did the following steps:

  1. JAVA_HOME must be set, and the path must not contain spaces. If the full path would contain spaces, then use the Windows short path instead.  In my case, this was:
    set JAVA_HOME=C:\Progra~1\Java\jdk1.7.0_80\
  2. I created a C:\tmp folder because I didn’t have one and, by convention, Hadoop uses it.
  3. I added the ZLIB_HOME environment variable and pointed it to C:\Program Files\Java\zlib128-dll\include.
  4. I added several items to the PATH variable:  C:\Program Files\Java\apache-maven-3.3.9\bin;C:\Program Files (x86)\CMake\bin;C:\Program Files\Java\zlib128-dll;C:\Program Files\Java\Cygwin\bin

With all that in place, I was ready to start Hadoop.

Starting Hadoop

Apparently I have to configure several files in the Hadoop\etc\configure folder first.

Section 3 on the wiki page describes in detail how to change the configuration files.

I combined that information with the steps found on this article to create the file system, create a directory and put my txt file there.

What’s Next?

I am not sure what’s next.  Looks like I have some learning to do.

This article gives a nice technical overview of Hadoop.

And then I discovered Hortonworks.  Hortonworks Sandbox is an open-source VM with Hadoop and a bunch of tools already fully configured.  So I downloaded this onto a different machine and am trying it out right now.  I’m going to try the VirtualBox VM.  I used VMWare Player and VirtualBox some time ago and found VirtualBox a lot easier to work with.  It looks the Hortonworks HDP Sandbox is going to take a while to download.  See you again on Monday.

In the meantime, I’m going to check out this tutorial on edureka.


Orks with Dreads? Why not?

A quick and easy way to make dreadlocks for your orks, or for anyone else for that matter, is to use your Hobby Drill in the thickest part of an old sprue.  Twirling the hobby drill carefully, you can get a ½ to ¾ inch long dreadlock (or longer I suppose, if the sprue is thick enough).

Superglue the dreadlocks to your orks’ heads with Superglue Thin.  Do not use plastic glue as it will dissolve the dreadlocks you just worked so hard to make.

And voila, your bald orks now have dreads.

Enjoy your hobby!

Current bought to painted ratio for 2016:  ∞:5